Have you heard of Grottaglie and its gorgeous ceramics… but the thought of entering a ceramics shop with your kids makes you sweat?
Me too!
I’m a mamma of three boys (ages 4, 7, and 11), and on a recent trip to Puglia, I had Grottaglie on my radar.
Three quarters into our trip, we’d spent plenty of time playing at the beach, swimming in hotel pools, exploring villages, joining soccer matches with local kids.
I’d mentioned to my kids a few times that I really wanted to check out Grottaglie’s ceramics and one evening at dinner, we had a little chat about it. All three agreed they could make it happen for mamma, so… watch out Grottaglie!
Spoiler: I got my ceramics. We didn’t break anything. I did get a bloody nose and sweat through my dress. We’re home now and loving our new dishes!
If you’re in Puglia with kids and want to shop in Grottaglie, here’s how to make it happen!
I’ll include:
- Why you should visit Grottaglie (or skip it)
- Info on the layout of Grottaglie
- Where to park to visit Grottaglie’s ceramics district
- Recommended ceramics shops
- My tips for ceramics shopping with kids in Grottaglie
- If the historic center of Grottaglie is worth visiting
- What to see & do near Grottaglie
Good To Know: This isn’t an epic historic guide to Grottaglie – it’s for mammas want to visit the town and shop for ceramics!
You may want to check out my guide to visiting Puglia with Kids
This page contains affiliate links. If you purchase from the links, we may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. Please see our Disclaimer for more information.
Why You Should Visit Grottaglie
While Grottaglie does have a charming historic center, this is the place to visit if you love ceramics!
I’d been eyeing the schizzato (aka ‘splatter’ or ‘smarmorato’) ceramics for some time. They’ve got plenty of other designs and styles – there really is something for everyone.
The ceramics district of Grottaglie is concentrated in a small area and it’s very walkable. This means you can check out multiple shops.
You can see the artisans at work. This was a special moment for my boys. They enjoyed watching the clay being worked on the wheel and seeing the ceramics being painted.
If you’re not interested in ceramics, or you’re really worried about your young kids in the ceramics shops, skip Grottaglie on this trip.
Good To Know: Don’t think you can swing a trip to Grottaglie, but you still want some of its ceramics? You can order online from many of the artisans.
Grottaglie’s Location in Puglia & The Layout of the Town
You’ll find Grottaglie in Salento, on the peninsula that’s the ‘heel’ of Italy’s ‘boot.’
It’s not far from the Valle d’Itria and its towns (Ceglie Messapica, Ostuni, Martina Franca, etc).
On the map below, I’ve highlighted the general area of the Ceramics District and a way to walk into the historic center from the ceramics district. I say ‘general area’ because there are ceramics shops that aren’t in the orange highlighted area. I’m trying to give you an idea of the ceramics area of Grottaglie to explore on foot.
The green area show you a way to walk into the historic center (visiting the main piazza), leaving from the Ceramics District. It’s an out-and-back, but you can also take a different route back.
Good To Know: The historic center is in a ZTL, but the Ceramics District isn’t (at the time of writing).
Read more about
Driving in Puglia
Renting a Car in Italy
Where to Park in Grottaglie
If you’re planning on purchasing ceramics and having them shipped, parking isn’t tough. There are a couple of lots adjacent to the ceramics district like this one.
If you’re planning on loading ceramics into your car, you can always bring your car closer to the shop to pick them up. We parked along the street right in front of Ceramica Nicola Fasano.
Read more about Parking in Italy
Recommended Ceramics Shops in Grottaglie for Families
In a Hurry? Shop at Ceramiche Nicola Fasano and/or Bottega Ceramica di Fasano Antonio. With older kids or teens, check out the funky art at Giorgio di Palma. With smaller kids, walk into the spacious Cretaglie and marvel at the balloons and sea life ceramics and see artisans at work in the back.
- Ceramiche Nicola Fasano – This is where I had my kids watch the iPad because I knew I wanted to get my dishes here. The staff is so kind to kids and they helped me pick out my dishes efficiently. There’s a toilet here too.
- Bottega Ceramica di Fasano Antonio – My boys picked out their bowls and mugs here. The guys here were amazing with my boys, helping them ‘carry’ their new purchases to check out, chatting with them, dancing with them (in the shop, mamma mia), and just overall being a joy to be around.
- Giorgio di Palma – Fun, funky, realistic ceramic creations (think popsicles, telephones, soccer shoes, origami). Reached by a narrow set of stairs. This is best visited by older kids and teens who know not to touch the artwork.
- Bottega Vestita – See the workshop and feel the history as you look around.
- Marcorocco – Colorful, contemporary ceramics.
- Rosa Creazioni – Stunning lighting displays in the shop; I kept my boys in the doorway and we admired from afar.
- Watching Artisans – We were able to see artists painting at Ceramiche Arces (next to Nicola Fasano) and working on the pottery wheel at Cretaglie (which also had a lot of space in the shop – great for visiting with younger kids).
Helpful Tip: Get a phone number or website for the shop for later orders (in case you break some at home or want to order more).
Good To Know: I dug deep to find a ceramics painting class for my kids… calling studios, annoying the tourist office, and searching online. The best I came up with was the courses at Meno Fueco or some like this one on GetYourGuide, but my boys were more interested in painting so we didn’t take a class.
Tips for Ceramics Shopping in Grottaglie with Kids
- Research ceramics shops before you arrive. Pick a couple of favorites that have ceramics styles you like. That way, you don’t have to enter too many of the 72(!) ceramics shops in town. I had a list of 4 and we ended up visiting 3 of them, plus a few others that we noticed while we were walking around.
- Have an idea of what you want to purchase. If you’re interested in a dining set, know what type of dishes you want (dinner plates, chargers, fruit plates, cereal bowls, pasta bowls, platters, etc), the designs you like, and how many of each dish you’d like (8, 10, 12?).
- Bring someone else with you if you can. They can take the kids to get gelato, visit kid-friendly ceramics shops, or even head to the nearby playground. There’s an indoor play center nearby too (LucyLand).
- If you’re alone with your kids (like I was), have a plan. I had my short list of shops. In the car on the way to Grottaglie, we talked about ‘looking with our eyes, not with our hands.’ I also brought an iPad for the main shop I wanted to spend time in (if you’re wondering, it didn’t keep their attention for long).
- Arrive fed and have snacks handy. If you need to take a break for food or drinks, Bar delle Ceramiche is right on Via Crispi (super convenient).
- Have a reward for your kids. Maybe it’s gelato or going to the beach after shopping. My kids were thrilled to pick out their own piece (they each chose a bowl and a mug to use at home).
- Leave your large stroller in the car. Some of the shops are small, have stairs, or just aren’t set up for strollers.
- Purchasing a lot of ceramics? Have them shipped to your home. You won’t need to worry about packing them and keeping them whole during your trip.
- If you’re keeping your ceramics with you (instead of shipping them), try to plan your trip to Grottaglie toward the end of your trip. It’s a pain to deal with them in your rental car (I have new muscles from loading/unloading them as I didn’t want to leave them in the car unattended).
- Visit in the morning or evening. The town shuts down midday, so if you arrive at then, you’ll be resigned to window shopping. Most shops close around 13:00 and open back up around 17:00. Also, Grottaglie gets hot in the summer months (like throw-me-in-an-ice-bath hot). Cooler mornings and evenings keep mamma and kids sane.
Should You Visit the Historic Center of Grottaglie?
Yes, if you have time (meaning, it doesn’t cut into your ceramics time). Grottaglie’s center has layers and character, and it’s worth a wander. Head to the main piazza (Piazza Regina Margherita) and have a gelato at Centotre Gelateria or get a cool drink and snack at one of the bars on the piazza.
To walk to the Historic Center, take Via Crispi downhill to the T-intersection. Then, turn right, walk past the water fountain (take a sip if you need it – we did!), and make your way onto Via Umberto I. It will lead you to the main piazza.
What to See & Do In & Around Grottaglie
Besides shopping for ceramics and walking to Grottaglie’s historic center, you could also:
- Visit the playground in Grottaglie. The one in Piazza Principe di Piemonte is just a 5-minute walk from the Ceramics District.
- Take photos in front of graffiti walls. A favorite activity of my boys. We used some of the buildings on Via Santa Sofia as a backdrop.
- Go to the beach. Grottaglie is just 40 minutes from the Ionian Sea coast.
- Visit Valle d’Itria towns. Some of the area’s gems are just a 25-40 minute drive away (Ostuni, Martina Franca, Ceglie Messapica, Cisternino, Locorotondo).
