Ciao! Are you wondering if it’s possible to visit the Dolomites in the winter without a car?
Yes, it is. And, depending on where you’re headed, it may be the best way to visit. Rental cars can be the best way to explore in Italy, but parking, gas, tolls, and ZTLs all add in extra headache opportunities.
Luckily, the Dolomites has an excellent network of public transportation!
I’m a mamma of three living in Tuscany, and I recently visited the Dolomites from Florence with one of my sons – by public transport.
So, I won’t just give you my opinions based on theory, but also on our actual experience. We’ve also visited by the Dolomites without a car in the summer months.
Here’s how we did it, plus tips for you if you’re thinking of doing the same.
Let’s take a look at:
- Our travels to and around the Dolomites without a car, step-by-step
- Main costs for using public transport to visit the Dolomites in the winter
- A few challenges of using public transport in the Dolomites in winter months
- Tips for a winter visit to the Dolomites using public transport, with kids
- If we think it’s worth it
Good To Know: I’ll mention it below , but just to give a heads up… the ease of visiting without a car largely depends on where you’re going in the Dolomites.
Main cities are easy (for example, you want to check out the Christmas markets. Plenty of villages and ski areas are easy to reach also (like where we went, above Bolzano).
Before you make any big decisions, check out the public transport options for your destination. I like to use sudtirolmobil (most reliable) and Google Maps. Keep it sane and don’t book routes long journeys or with 5 changes!
Check out my general guide to Visiting the Dolomites Without a Car
Read more about visiting Italy in January – February – March – April – May – June – July – August – September – October – November – December.
Our Winter Trip to the Dolomites Using Public Transport
Getting to the Dolomites (from Florence)


- We drove from home and parked at Villa Costanza (just outside Florence). To completely make this car free, we could’ve taken a taxi or hitched a ride from my husband (but he was busy with our other two kids).
- We took the tramvia from Villa Costanza (less than 5-minute walk from parking lot to the tram) to the Florence SMN train station in the center of Florence.
- We took the train from Florence SMN train station to the Bolzano/Bozen train station.
- Once in Bolzano, we walked 5 minutes to the bus station and took the bus to Fiè allo Sciliar.
- In Fiè, we walked less than 5 minutes to our apartment in the center of Fiè allo Sciliar.
Traveling Around the Dolomites by Public Transport

We took the bus to/from the snow, to/from other villages, and to/from Bolzano.
We also utilized chairlifts and gondolas.
Here’s exactly what we did:
- Bus to/from Bolzano
- Bus to/from base of Alpe di Siusi; gondola up/down, plus other gondola for sledding.
- Bus to/from base of Alpe di Siusi; extra bus ride to Castelrotto
- Bus to Bolzano
- Gondola to Soprabolzano (and back down)
Traveling from the Dolomites Back to Florence

We traveled back the same way we arrived. The only difference was we ended up exploring Bolzano and nearby a bit more before our train back, so we utilized the luggage storage at the Bolzano train station.
Read more about
Florence to Bolzano by Train
Parking at Villa Costanza
Florence’s SMN Train Station
Good To Know: There are some places you can’t reach easily with a car in the Dolomites. For example, we spent a couple of days up at Alpe di Siusi, and we took the Seiser Alm cable car up/down each day. While you can drive up/down, you’re limited on hours you can drive up (the road up is closed between 9:00-17:00)… and you need to pay for parking.
Main Costs for Using Public Transport to Visit the Dolomites in the Winter

For our 3-night trip in the Dolomites, here’s what we (1 adult, 1 child – 7 years old) spent:
- Round-trip Florence-Bolzano train tickets – €121.30
- Bus tickets – €22.50
- Gondola/chairlift tickets – €101
- Parking at Villa Costanza (where I left my car outside of Florence) – €28
- Tram (between Villa Costanza and Florence train station) – €6.80
- Toll to get to/from Villa Costanza (you can only access the large parking lot via the Autostrada) – €1.00
TOTAL -> €280.60
By utilizing public transport, we saved on:
- Rental car cost
- Gas
- Tolls
- Parking
- Dealing with the mental energy of navigating roads and parking
We would’ve spent much more than €280 if we’d rented a car and driven up.
Dolomites Without a Car – Challenging Things for Us
While the experience was great for us, I won’t say it was all rainbows and butterflies. Here are a few things to consider when making your decision:
- Sometimes it was cold waiting for the bus. It’s nice to hop in your car and turn on the heat!
- Google Maps wasn’t always accurate. I ended up downloading the sudtirolmobil app. It’s got real-time info on the buses and other transport options in the region.
- Crowded buses and coughing. The buses to/from the ski areas (like Alpe di Siusi) were really busy. If you’re really worried about germs, having your own car is better choice.
- My contactless payment didn’t work when buying tickets on the buses. Not a big deal, but I did need to make sure I had cash for all of our bus rides.
Visiting the Dolomites Without a Car – Kids Edition

I just did this with my 7-year-old, so it can be done! Here are a few tips and things to keep in mind if you plan on visiting the area without a car:
- Look for deals on trains. Book as early as possible as the deals are limited.
- Always ask for discounts for kids. You may want to keep a photo of your child’s ID on your phone in case someone asks for you to verify the age. We’ve never had to do this, but it could happen.
- Use toilets whenever you get the chance. You’ll be ‘stuck’ on buses and public transport without toilets. Trains have toilets, as do most stations (like at the top and bottom of most gondolas).
- Dress warmly. It’s chilly, and you’ll be waiting outside for trains, buses, and lifts. The stations are usually cold too. We sometimes looked for warm places to wait. For example, while waiting for the Fiè to Bolzano bus, we went into the tourist info office for a few minutes to warm up a bit.
- Bring a book or some small entertainment. We had a book for the train (and homework), plus he had some soccer trading cards that he looked at and read while waiting for buses. Have something that can be stuffed into a pocket or backpack.
- Bring handwarmers. I had some with us, but we didn’t end up using them. Still, I liked knowing we had a little extra warmth if we needed it.
Read more about
Dolomites with Kids – Winter Edition
Dolomites with Kids – Summer Edition
A Winter Visit to Bolzano with Kids
Alpe di Siusi with Kids – Winter Edition
Dolomites in Winter – For Non-Skiers
Where to Stay in the Dolomites with Kids
Train Travel in Italy with Kids
Things to Do in Italy with Kids
Visiting the Dolomites with Public Transport in the Winter – Is it Worth It?

Again, for me it’s a big YES. It’s really simple and stress-free to visit the area by public transport.
It’s important to do the research before you visit to make sure it’s a good option for you and your group. Or, to plan your trip around using public transport.
Things to consider:
- How long you’re visiting – If you’re staying for a while, you may want to have a car so you can do some extra exploration. We were in Fiè for 3 nights, and we never felt bored or limited by public transport.
- How much luggage you’ve got – You’ll need to load it on/off buses and trains. Between the two of us, we had two carry-on roller bags and a small backpack.
- Where your accommodation is located – Can you walk to it easily/safely from the bus stop?
- Your need for flexibility – I was visiting with my low-maintenance 7-year-old. He was fine walking to/from buses, waiting for the bus, etc.
I hope this has helped you make a decision on whether or not to travel to the Dolomites by public transport during the winter months. Buon viaggio!
Traveling by public transport in Italy? Read more about
Tuscany Without a Car
Train Travel in Italy
Still thinking about renting a car? Be sure to read
Renting a Car in Italy
Driving in the Dolomites
Toll Roads in Italy
Getting Gas in Italy
ZTLs in Italy
IDP in Italy – Do You Need One?