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Cobblestone street with view of shop entrances under a portico. Bicycle and Christmas tree in front of the portico. Street lit up in evening in Bolzano, Italy.

Bolzano in Winter – Well-Worth a Visit!

Thinking of visiting Bolzano in the inverno (winter)?  Stop thinking about it and make it happen! 

Bolzano (aka Bozen in German) is the capital of South Tyrol, and its historic center is:

  • Colorful
  • Photogenic
  • Full of excellent restaurants and cafés
  • Set amongst mountains and vineyards
  • Filled to the brim with shops (boutiques and chains)
  • Home to one of Italy’s loveliest Christmas markets

It’s the perfect place for a few cozy nights in the winter, or even as a day trip from a nearby city or mountain village.

I’m a mamma of three based in Tuscany and I’ve been visiting the Dolomites at least once a year since 2004 – for work and play.  I usually visit Bolzano with my family in the summer months, but we also love winter in Bolzano. 

My most recent winter visit was this January, with my 7-year-old son.  We based ourselves in nearby Fiè allo Sciliar, but made two trips to Bolzano during our time in the area. 

Let’s take a look at:

  • If Bolzano in the winter is a good choice for you
  • What to see and do in Bolzano during the winter
  • Where to eat and sleep in Bolzano during the winter
  • How to get to Bolzano and move around the city during the chilly months
  • What to see and do near Bolzano during the winter
  • My winter packing list for Bolzano

I hope this helps convince you to add Bolzano to your Italy winter itinerary! 

Andiamo – let’s go!

Coming with your family? Check out A Winter Visit to Bolzano with Kids – Yay or Nay?

Who Should Visit Bolzano in the Winter

Boy in brown coat walks down via dei Portici in Bolzano. It's a cobblestone street with porticoes on either side. Small Christmas trees line the street and people are walking in either direction.
My son checking out the shops on Via dei Portici

One of the things I like best about visiting Bolzano in the winter is that there’s a variety of things to see and do.  It’s not a one-dimensional city, so whether you’re a nature lover or a museum fan, you’ll find your niche in Bolzano.

The city is especially nice in the winter for:

  • Christmas market fans
  • Visitors focused on city visit with day trips outside to play in snow or explore nature
  • Shoppers (in January and early February)
  • Families who want a destination that has something for all ages
  • Wine lovers and foodies

You may want to check out Dolomites in Winter – For Non-Skiers

Who Should Avoid a Winter Trip to Bolzano

I‘ll admit it, Bolzano may not be your cup of tea in the winter.  You may want to skip a winter trip to Bolzano if you:

  • Want a vacation focused on skiing and playing in the snow
  • Are seeing a really Italian feel to winter holiday
  • Don’t like chilly weather

What do Do on a Winter Visit to Bolzano

So, if you’re still reading, you’re contemplating a visit to Bolzano.  Wondering what will keep you busy and entertained in Bozen?

In the winter, don’t miss:

Bolzano’s Christmas Market – The mercatino di Natale in Piazza Walther is one of our family’s favorite Christmas markets in Italy.  The piazza is decorated with lights, Christmas trees, and around 100 wooden market stalls selling local foods (sausages, cheeses, honey), local oils (pino mugo!), wine or hot chocolate, Christmas ornaments, handmade mittens, and so much more. 

Read more about Bolzano’s Christmas Market

Eating in a Cozy Restaurant – Once part of Austria, Bolzano’s cuisine is still linked to the area.  If you’re craving Italian food, don’t worry – you can still find plenty of it in Bolzano. 

Say Ciao to the Ice Man – I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen the Ice Man, but I can tell you every visit is as cool as the last one (see what I did there?).  Joking aside, don’t miss a visit to the South Tyrol Archaeological Museum, home to Ötzi, the over 5000 year old mummy on display.  It’s a fascinating visit.

Shopping in the Historic Center – Bolzano’s home to independent boutiques and international chains, shops selling outdoor gear, fun toy shops, and more.  We love strolling the Via dei Portici, especially in January, when shops are running bi-annual sales (the other sales are in July). 

Ice Skating – There’s a small ice rink set up in Piazza del Municipio, and you can rent skates on site.

Wine Tasting – Trentino-Alto Adige is home to some of Northern Italy’s best wines.  You can visit wineries around Bolzano (look up, the hills are covered in vineyards), or sip wines with meals in Bolzano restaurants.  A visit to the Loacker estate just outside of Bolzano is on my to-do list.

You may want to read about
Things to Do in Bolzano
Bolzano with Kids

Where to Eat in Bolzano

Black plate on table with sausages, polenta, and mushrooms. Fork on left.
My meal at Wirtshaus Vögele

My top picks for a winter meal in Bolzano are Wirtshaus Vögele or Hopfen & Co. for traditional food from South Tyrol.  If you’ve got an Italian craving, grab a spot at Walther’s on Piazza Walther.  While you’re eating your pizza or pasta, you’ll have prime views of the Christmas market.

In the mood for a quick sausage?  Head to our favorite sausage stand, in the middle of the Piazza delle Erbe market.

Check out Bolzano Restaurants – Where to Eat on Your First Visit

How to Get to Bolzano in the Winter

Boy in red sweatshirt sits next to window on a train in the Dolomites, Italy. Out the window are low mountains and winter vineyards.
My son on the train from Florence to Bolzano

Our family drives to the Dolomites sometimes, but we also utilize public transport.  This is my favorite area to travel car-free – the public transportation network here is reliable and efficient.

Helpful Tip:  Download the sudtirolmobil app or use the website.  It’s the best transport app for the Dolomites – much better than Google Maps.  It helps you plan your route, shows real-time schedules (including delays), and you can buy your tickets. 

Good To Know:  If you’re staying in a hotel or apartment, ask for the Süd Tirol Guest Pass.  It’s a transport pass that’s almost always included in your room rate. 

Train – Bolzano is well-connected by train (from Italo Treno or Trenitalia), both high-speed and local trains.  The Bolzano train station is steps (ok, less than 5-minutes walking) from Piazza Walther and the historic center. 

Good To Know:  If you need to, you can store your luggage at the train station (track one, head to the right if you’re facing the track).  We just left our luggage there for half a day and were so happy to explore without our bags!

Read more about
Taking the Train from Florence to Bolzano
Visiting the Dolomites in Winter Without a Car
Train Travel in Italy
Taking the Train in Italy with Kids

Bus –  If you’re staying in the general area, arriving in Bolzano by bus is an excellent option.  We often arrive by bus if we’re visiting from Fiè and don’t have our car with us (like on our most recent visit). 

Car – This is my least favorite way to arrive in Bolzano, but we’ve done it and it’s not too bad.  Just keep in mind that there’s a ZTL, a zona traffico limitato (limited traffic zone), so don’t try to drive into the historic center.  Stick to the main parking garages.  When we drive in, we usually park in the Luna Mondschein (Luna Via Molini) garage (tiny, not great with big cars, but convenient location in the center, not in the ZTL).  Or, we park in the Parcheggio Centro garage, which is enormous, but about a 10-minute walk from Piazza Walther. 

Read more about
Driving in the Dolomites
Parking in Italy
ZTLs in Italy
Driving in Italy
Getting Gas in Italy
IDP – Do You Need It?

Getting Around Bolzano During the Chilly Months

Boy in brown coat runs in the Bolzano Christmas market, passing wooden stalls on the left and lit Christmas trees on the right. He's heading toward a large Christmas tree up ahead.

Bolzano is a very walkable city, and you’ll see locals moving around on foot or by bicycle. 

I prefer to walk (vs cycle) in the winter because of the risk of slipping on wet ground or ice. 

You can also take the bus.  Download the sudtirolmobil app or look at the website to plan your route or buy tickets.  You can also buy tickets on the bus (heads up that my contactless payment didn’t work on the buses on our recent trip, so always have some cash handy).

Taxis are also available.

You don’t need a car in Bolzano if you’re just visiting the city.  If you do need to rent a car in Bolzano (for visiting nearby areas), try to rent it at the front or back end of your Bolzano visit so you don’t have to deal with parking in Bolzano.  

Things to Do Near Bolzano During the Winter

While you could definitely stay in one place, there are plenty of things to see and do within reach:

Merano – thermal baths, Trauttmansdorff Gardens (closes in November), city center stroll and shopping, Christmas market, Merano 2000

Learn more in
Merano 2000 with Kids
One Day in Merano with Kids
Things to Do in Merano with Kids
Trauttmansdorff Gardens with Kids
Where to Stay in Merano with Kids

Alpe di Siusi – play in the snow, try winter sports (skiing, sledding, snowboarding, snowshoeing), go on a horse carriage ride, chow down at a mountain hut (rifugio)

Read more in Alpe di Siusi with Kids – Winter Edition

Soprabolzano – take the funivia up and hike or take the little train

Mountain Villages – take the bus (or drive) up to Fiè allo Sciliar, Castelrotto, or Siusi.  Ortisei is a bit of a trek, but can be done. 

Read more about
Visiting Fiè allo Sciliar
Fiè allo Sciliar with Kids
Visiting Castelrotto
Castelrotto with Kids
Visiting Ortisei
Ortisei with Kids

What to Pack for a Winter Visit to Bolzano

Boy in coat walks on gravel trail between wooden fence. He's walking toward the forest. Yellow grass on each side and a little bit of snow. He's above Bolzano in the Dolomites, Italy.
My son walking above Bolzano in warm layers, a hat, a neck gaiter, and gloves

It’s chilly in Bolzano in the winter months, so make sure you’re ready with plenty of warm layers.  But, if you arrive and don’t feel warm enough, you can buy anything you need (and more!) in Bolzano.  There are plenty of shops (dressy, casual, and sporty) at all price levels in Bolzano.  And, if you’re in town in January, you’ll catch the saldi (sales)!

Here are some of the main things you’ll need for a winter visit to Bolzano:

A warm winter coat – Light jackets and windbreakers won’t cut it.  You’ll want a heavy winter coat.  I like to wear a down coat that goes down to my thighs.

Hat, gloves/mittens, and scarf – Gloves or mittens with the little patches for use with your smartphone are helpful (so you don’t have to remove them when you want to search for something on your phone, look at Google Maps, etc).

Warm layers – I always wear a base layer top (like Icebreaker’s merino base layers or Patagonia’s capilene layers).  I pack other casual layers (like fleeces and cashmere sweaters.  I usually just wear pants (no layers underneath them). 

Cozy socks – Ditch the cotton socks and pack something warmer like wool.  I bring Patagonia wool socks that I’ve had for over 20 years (I’m not sure if I should be embarrassed or proud of that fact).

Warm, water-resistant or waterproof shoes – Don’t worry, you don’t need to look fancy in Bolzano (although you will see locals sometimes dressed up).  I wear my sporty, warm winter boots (that I wear on the mountain) and don’t feel out of place at all.  I also like to pack two pairs of shoes for Bolzano and the Dolomites in case one pair gets wet and I can’t dry them in time.  Read more about the Best Shoes for Italy.

Activity-specific clothing – For example, hiking boots if you’ll be going for walks, or warm layers if you’ll be up in the snow.  You can rent ski/snow gear in the mountains, but feel free to bring your own gear if you prefer.  My son and I just spent time on Alpe di Siusi and we rented boots, skis/snowboard, and helmets.  We had our other clothing.

Sunscreen

Sunglasses – If you’re planning on playing in the snow around Bolzano.

Pajamas – Your room will be heated but pjs feel great!  I also make sure we have slippers or warm socks for the room.

A book – Kindles or books are nice to have in Bolzano in the winter because you can find a nice café to read and sip a warm drink.  Or, read in your room in the evening. 

Umbrella – You may want one in case it rains, but you can always duck under a portico or into a café and wait it out.

Camera or Smartphone – Bolzano is always photogenic, and especially so in the winter.

Essentials – You’ll need your passport, credit card (or contactless payment on your phone or watch), and driver’s license (and IDP) if you plan on driving in the Dolomites.

Enjoy your winter holiday to Bolzano! 

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