Venice with a Toddler – A Mom in Italy’s Complete Guide

Hi!  Are you planning a trip to Venice (or trying to decide if you should include it in your itinerary?  I’m here to help!

I’m a mamma of three boys and we live in central Italy.  I’m also a trip planner and I spent over a decade guiding cycling and hiking trips in Italy.  I’ve spent plenty of time in Venice with kids (my kids adore the city, and so do I), including when they were toddlers. 

In an effort to ‘keep it real’ and not sugarcoat anything, toddler age is my least favorite age of child to bring to Venice.  Why?  Because of the water hazards – you’re almost always within reach of the canals and lagoon.  And there aren’t barriers like gates.

Still, you may be traveling with your family that includes a toddler, or you’re planning a once-in-a-lifetime trip and you really want to make Venice happen.  I get it!  And I’ve got plenty of experience in Venice with toddlers, so let’s walk through how you can have a fabulous, stress-free time in magical Venice with your toddler.

Also check out my guide to Venice with Kids

Why Visit Venice with a Toddler?

Venice is a unique destination, and there’s plenty in the city to keep toddlers entertained and entranced:

• Boats
• Water
• Carnival masks (many are animal faces)
• Tower climbs (by elevator or few steps)
• Playgrounds
• Finger foods
• Colorful glass art and trinkets (for looking at)
• Car-free piazzas with other kids playing

Perhaps even more worth noting is that it’s an enchanting place for adults too, so it’s a place you and your toddler can really enjoy together (vs. wandering through a museum looking at Renaissance paintings… fun for you but probably not so much for your toddler).

Why Skip Venice with a Toddler?

Venice with a toddler isn’t for the faint of heart. 

There’s water everywhere (more on that below).  If you think you’ll spend the entire time in Venice stressed about your quick toddler trying to go for a swim in the canal, skip Venice and come back when he or she is older. 

Summer months can be really hot. 

Late spring through early fall can be very crowded.    

Safety Issues in Venice with a Toddler

Water (Canals & the Lagoon) – There aren’t any railings or barriers to keep kids from falling into the water… the sidewalks just end in the water.  If possible, do what I do and ‘call in the reinforcements’ – visit with at least two adults for every toddler so you can take a break every once in a while.  I’ve done this with my parents and with visiting friends – it makes the visit so much easier and more fun. 

Not Wearing a Life Jacket on Vaporetti or Gondolas – If you want your kids to wear life jackets on boats in Venice, you’re out of luck.  But, you can keep your kids in the inside part of the vaporetto (just make sure you keep an eye on them if the window next to your seat is open.

Crowds – Outside of winter, Venice sees a ton of visitors.  You’ll need to keep your toddler close.  It can also be a pain to move around with a stroller during crowded periods in the city.

Read my advice on How to Avoid Crowds in Italy

Extreme Heat – Summer in Venice is toasty, but you can still visit.  It’s just important to ‘hide out’ inside during the day and do your exploring in the morning and evening.  This works well with toddlers because you can head back to your room to nap during the day. 

Car-Free Streets – I always like to address Venice’s car-free streets and piazzas.  While they’re a definite plus when visiting with a toddler, it’s easy to get a false sense of security and forget about the water hazard.  There’s always water nearby in Venice.

When to Visit Venice with Your Toddler

My preferred times to visit Venice with a toddler are:

• Early spring (March & April) or late fall (October & November) – mild temperatures, lighter crowds
• December – our favorite time to visit Venice (at any age); temps are chilly but the city is magical with twinkling holiday lights and quieter streets; January lacks the holiday spirit but the light crowds still make it a nice time for a visit with a toddler
• During Biennale – Venice’s main event runs every two years and the art area (the pavilions) has plenty of large exhibitions to visit with a toddler

My least favorite times to visit Venice with toddlers:

• June through August – Venice at its hottest and most crowded; doable though if you take a rest indoors during the day and explore at night
• Carnival Time – Carnevale is a festive moment in Venice, but the crowds may be too much for you if you’re traveling with a toddler.  I personally avoid Carnevale time in Venice with all of my kids.

Read more about visiting Italy in January – February – March – April – May – June – July – August – September – October – November – December.

FAQ:  Should I visit Venice on a day trip with my toddler?  I have plenty of times (from Florence).  We leave early in the morning and come back either before or after dinner.  I like it because I only have to pack for the day.  Plus, my little kids usually sleep on the train ride back.

Our Favorite Things to See & Do in Venice with a Toddler

Look at Venetian Carnival masks in windows. Our kids’ favorite shop to peek at the masks is Kartaruga.  The window display is full of animal masks.

Take the vaporetto down the Grand Canal.  This is fun for kids of all ages and adults.  Whether on arrival or at some other point during your Venice stay, take a ride on the vaporetto along the Grand Canal.  It’s something we still do every single time we go to Venice and it doesn’t get old.  Check out the architecture, point out the different boats (police, trash, taxis, etc), and soak up this unique city.  You can sit inside or outside.  I try to avoid the back outside area because sometimes the fumes are bad.

Visit one of Venice’s playgrounds. . I know you didn’t travel all the way to Venice to visit a playground, but it’s worth stopping to let your little one run around and mingle with other kids. 

Read my guide to Our Favorite Playgrounds in Venice

Climb an easy tower.  Take an elevator up some of Venice’s towers or climb up the easy stairs of the Scala Contarini del Bovolo. 

Read more about
Venice Climbs and Viewpoints
Climbing Venice’s Clock Tower
How to ‘Climb’ St. Mark’s Bell Tower
Scala Contarini del Bovolo – A Kid-Friendly Climb

Take the vaporetto to Burano. If you can, hop on an early morning vaporetto to the colorful island of Burano.  It’s got a great playground, colorful houses to look at, and Venice’s best cookies straight from the bakery.  Just like Venice proper, there are no water barriers, so keep your toddler close. 

Read more in my guide to Burano with Kids

Get cicchetti!  I’ll talk more about cicchetti below in the ‘Eating’ section, but don’t miss a chance at these toddler-friendly finger foods! 

Watch glass being blown on Murano.  Seeing a glass horse and glass candy being made has been a Venice highlight for all three of my toddlers.  The demos are quick and remember that you don’t have to buy something from the shop.  I skip the stroll through the shop with toddlers.  If you want to check out the glass products, you can still window shop on Murano or even in the main part of Venice.

Look at the glittering mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica.  Venice’s basilica is one of the most stunning cathedrals in Italy, and it’s well worth a visit even if churches aren’t typical toddler magnets.  The golden and colorful mosaics inside and outside the basilica are beautiful and will keep your toddler engaged while you walk through.  Note:  You can’t bring your stroller in.

Get a gelato.  My favorite gelateria in Venice is Suso, and there are two locations.  For more options, see Eating Around Italy’s picks for the best gelaterie in Venice.

Run around in a piazza.  Yes, you’ll likely end up in Piazza San Marco at some point (great photo spot).  But, be sure to check out Venetian campi, like Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, Campo Santo Stefano, Campo Santa Margherita, and Campo San Giovanni e Paolo.

Play in the sand at the Venice Lido.  If it’s hot and you need some space and splashing in the sea, head to the Lido.  I recommend reserving a spot at a bagno (beach club) so you can use the amenities (which may include some or all: lounge chairs, umbrellas, restaurant, bar, changing rooms, showers, kids play area).  Bagni have a cost, but they make going to the beach with a toddler much easier!

Things I Don’t Love Doing in Venice with a Toddler:

• Visiting the Libreria Acqua Alta – this place is unique and beautiful but the aisles are narrow, there are cats (that don’t love their tales pulled), and it’s not a relaxing browsing experience with a toddler.
• Sit down meals.  It’s such an easy place to get quick cicchetti or tramezzini or have a picnic in a park.
• Riding on boats besides vaporetti.  My toddlers have all been fairly wiggly, so I prefer the vaporetti with inside seating areas to gondolas.  If you dream about going on a gondola but you also have awiggly toddler, you could wear him/her in a baby carrier.

Read about Going on a Gondola Ride in Venice with Kids

Eating in Venice with a Toddler

Venice is very kid-friendly when it comes to food! 

One of the main styles of dining here is to eat cicchetti – little finger foods.  They’re a bit like Spanish tapas.  They’re small portions so they’re a great way to let kids try new foods and you won’t have to throw out an entire meal if he/she doesn’t like it.

Tramezzini are typical Venetian sandwiches.  They look a bit like crustless Wonder Bread sandwiches cut into two triangles (if you’re an 80s kid, you know).  Their fillings range from simple (mayo, prosciutto cotto, cheese) to more creative takes.  My boys also like the egg salad tramezzini and those with mozzarella and tomatoes. 

You can also make a picnic.  Walk through a market (like the famous Rialto Market) or grab your picnic supplies from a shop or fruit and veg stand in a piazza.  Most playgrounds have benches and there are also places to sit in Venice’s parks. 

Finally, besides the classic sweet treat of gelato, your kids will want to try some of Venice’s simple but delicious butter cookies – bussolai (singular: bussolà) and essi (singular: esse).  You can order one at a time at the bakery counter, but I like to get a little bag to carry around and hand out throughout the day.  They also travel fairly well, so you could get some to take with you on your travels to other parts of Italy.

Another thing I love about being in Venice with kids – having aperitivo, snack,or a hot drink on a campo while letting the kids play. 

Check out my recommendations for Where to Eat in Venice with Kids

Helpful Tip: If you do decide to eat at a sit-down restaurant, print out my Italian Coloring Pages for Kids for your toddler.

Where to Stay in Venice with a Toddler

Venice has six main neighborhoods (sestieri) – Cannaregio, San Marco, Castello, Santa Croce, San Polo, and Dorsoduro. 

My advice for where to stay with a toddler in Venice is the same for any age of kids:

If you have a few days in Venice, I recommend staying in a quieter neighborhood (Cannaregio or Castello).  After a day in the crowded streets of Venice, you’ll appreciate the respite.  However, this also means you’ll have more walking (or vaporetto trips) to get to and from Venice’s landmarks. 

If you’ll only be in Venice for a night (or two), it’s more convenient to be ‘in the action.’ Stay in San Marco or San Polo.  Be ready for crowds the minute you leave your hotel, but know that you can access your hotel easily throughout the day.

We’ve stayed in apartments and hotels and both work well in Venice.  If you typically choose apartments for the ease of preparing your own food (vs eating out all the time), you may be surprised at Venice’s kid-friendly foods (see above).  Picnics and finger foods abound, so if I find a good hotel deal, I snap it up quickly.

I’m working on a post with my specific recommendations!

Read more about Accommodations in Italy

Toddler Logistics in Venice

Finding Toilets – Venice has paid public toilets.  You can often see signs for ‘WC’ on the wall.  Or, check out this map.  You can also use toilets in museums, restaurants, and cafés.

Read my guide to Bathrooms in Italy

Drinking Water – Venice is full of water fountains so you can refill a water bottle or just take a sip.  Check out the up-to-date map of Venice’s drinking fountains (blue means it’s open and functioning).

Changing Diapers – You can change diapers in the public toilets or in other bathrooms you find.  If the weather’s nice, you can use a portable changing pad to change you toddler outside. 

Get the scoop on Diapers in Italy

Baby Supplies – You can find anything you need for your baby in Venice (clothing, diapers, baby wipes, sunscreen, etc).  Just ask someone ‘Dov’è il supermercato?’ (Where is the supermarket?) or search for supermercato on Google Maps.  The main chains in Venice are Coop, Despar, Conad, and Punto.  They’re small, but have the basics (diapers, wipes, sunscreen, baby toiletries).  You can find medicines, sunscreen, toiletries, and diaper supplies at pharmacies (farmacie).  You’ll also spot baby clothing shops from high end like Al Pupo to OVS (similar to Target). 

Should You Bring Your Stroller to Venice?

This is a polarizing topic!  I’ve been to Venice with a toddler with a stroller and without a stroller.  There are pluses and minuses to both.

The big negative of having a stroller is you’ve got to carry it up and over bridges (that go over the canals), which can be tiring and tough in crowds. 

If you want to bring a stroller when you visit with your toddler, I recommend bringing an umbrella stroller.  It’s my preferred stroller for this age in Venice.  I try to bring one with a sunshade and one that can tilt back a bit for naps.  Easy fold umbrella strollers are helpful for quick folds when you have to close it up for a vaporetto ride (not always, but sometimes if it’s crowded).

Leave your side-by-side stroller at home, even if you have two toddlers.  Walkways are too narrow and it won’t fit inside shops or restaurants.  You’ll also have a tough time on crowded vaporetti.  Opt instead for two separate strollers.  Full Disclosure:  I’ve traveled to Venice with my baby in a double stroller and I’d do it again.  It’s nice if you need a place for baby to nap and for another child to sit to take a break.  In this case, I try to limit bridge crossings and use the walkways along the lagoon.  For example, here’s a nice ~2 kilometer walk from Piazza San Marco to the Parco delle Rimembranze playground along the water that has bridges with ramps (no steps) and wide walkways.

If you have a toddler that loves to walk but may need a couple of breaks during the day, you may want to bring your baby carrier.  Just keep in mind your baby’s (and your own) comfort level if it’s really hot.  I’ve never done this, and instead opted for an umbrella stroller or letting my toddler walk (and be carried occasionally).  But, I’ve seen other parents with carriers.